| Carolina on My Mind: The Great Grapes Wine Festival | | | | By: Eve White | << back  Page 2 of 3 next >> |
With the skies darkening under threat of rain, I head to Black Wolf Vineyards tent for a chat with owner Dana Theis. Established in 1991, Black Wolf is one of the older wineries in Yadkin Valley, producing varietals ranging from Chardonnay to Pinot Noir. The challenges of growing the finicky grape in a humid Southern climate are not lost on Dana but Black Wolf. He does a good job, though, producing a wine with a nose of violets and perfume, and a taste of cherry and earth. It is young, but shows some promise.
The rain never materializes so I continue to Old North State Vineyards for a taste of 38 Vines poured by Pam Draughn, one of the friendly cooperative growers. The Old North State Winery is a co-op of 38 growers (hence the name “38 Vines”), and growers haul their grapes into Mount Airy to crush in the historical building located downtown, holding the claim to fame as the only winery in Mount Airy. The co-op farming concept is not new, but is certainly applied in a fresh way in Mt. Airy, allowing many smaller growers to contribute to a wine and reap the benefits. In addition to their grower-friendly co-op, Old North State Vineyards has a unique way of giving back to the community. For every bottle of 38 Vines “Autumn Leaf” Rose sold, $1 of the proceeds goes to Susan B. Komen Breast Cancer research. A pink wine, of course, with a pink capsule, and inspired by a cancer survivor who works in the 38 Vines tasting room, the 2003 38 Vines “Autumn Leaf” is a semi sweet Rosé, refreshing with a slightly effervescent quality.
Around the corner at Round Peak Winery, two couples form a partnership born out of a passion for wine. The husband and wife team George and Susan Little are full of smiles and conversation today, explaining their focus on Italian varietals due to the similar climates in the two Piedmonts of Italy and North Carolina. Along with their partners, Janet and Lee Martin, they have done a lovely job of producing some tasty Sangiovese with deep color and just enough acidity to balance the fruit, and claim to be the first to produce a Nebbiolo from the rich Carolina clay.
Heading out of the gates, I stop once more, drawn by the long lines at the Chatham Hill Winery tent. The 14th bonded winery in the state is only 6 years old and the first in the Raleigh area. Chatham Hill produces an award-winning Viognier, recommended to me by more than a few locals, but not on the list of wines for this event. However, the friendly staff is pouring a mild mannered Merlot that is very drinkable, alongside the 2002 Cabernet, with deep berry fruit; though tight and very young, the Cab shows promise, as my last taste on this regional wine adventure.
The long line of enthusiastic guests entering midway through the festival day proves the wine tasting will be going strong well into the evening. With a glint of sunshine breaking through the clouds, a new band tuning up for the next performance, and an abundance of North Carolina wine to taste, the Great Grapes Wine, Food and Music festival is just getting underway. North Carolina wines are young, but if new developments in state shipping legislation and wine distribution laws pave the way for rapid growth in the region it will stimulate this thriving new AVA, and with great grapes, good weather and a little luck, North Carolina may become a serious contender on the American wine scene in the next decade.
Selected North Carolina Wines and Wineries
Rag Apple Lassie Vineyards
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