Answer by: Roger C. Bohmrich, MW
Barbera is the most planted grape in Piedmont and contributes half of its DOC red wine output. It is grown in many areas, and is the sole or main grape in Barbera d'Asti, Barbera del Monferrato (both minimum 85%), and Barbera d'Alba (100%). There is considerable variation in style, especially from one estate to the next.
It is difficult to generalize, but many believe that the Asti version is usually lighter and more vividly etched with acidity than the fuller, fleshier Alba counterpart. However, this is contradicted by some modern growers such as La Spinetta, whose Barbera d'Asti "Ca' di Pian" can be remarkably dense and powerful.
For a fun exercise, buy and taste side-by-side the Barbera "Tre Vigne" of Vietti, who offers this label in both an Asti and Alba denomination. By the way, the Alba bottling is the more expensive of the two.
About the Expert:Roger has enjoyed a lengthy career in the wine trade, and he last served as a senior executive with a major national importer. In 2006, he launched Millesima USA, a retail entity affiliated with Europe's leading fine wine mail order company. Roger became one of America's first Masters of Wine in 1993, and he has been very active as an educator and speaker at wine festivals and conferences. He hosts a community television program entitled "Wine's Simple Pleasures," and is currently working on a book of original recipes and wine pairing solutions. Visit Roger C. Bohmrich, MW's website: MILLESIMA USA LLC
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